Deciding to bleach your hair is a big step, and one of the most common questions is about timing. Leaving bleach on for too little time means your hair might not lighten enough, but leaving it on for too long can lead to serious damage. It’s a delicate balance that depends on several key factors unique to you and your hair.
It’s Not Just About the Clock
The golden rule of bleaching is that there is no single, universal time. The developer volume you use plays a huge role. A 20-volume developer is gentler and processes more slowly, often left on for 30-45 minutes. A stronger 30 or 40-volume developer works much faster, and you should never leave it on for the full development time if you see your desired lightness sooner. Your hair’s starting color and texture also matter. Dark, coarse hair may require more time than fine, light brown hair to reach the same level of blonde.
How to Check Your Hair’s Progress Safely
Instead of setting a timer and walking away, you need to be an active participant. After about 20 minutes, start checking your hair every 5-10 minutes. Wipe a small section clean with a damp cloth to see the true color. Remember, hair lightens when it’s wet, so the color you see with the bleach paste on will be darker than the final result. Your goal is a pale yellow, like the inside of a banana peel, if you’re aiming for a platinum or pastel shade.
Listening to Your Hair’s Signals
Your hair will tell you when it’s had enough. If you feel a warm, hot sensation on your scalp, that’s a sign to rinse immediately to avoid chemical burns. A strange, stretchy texture when wet is a major red flag for over-processing. If your hair reaches your desired level of lightness before the maximum recommended time, don’t wait—rinse it out! There is no benefit to letting bleach sit on already-lightened hair.
Caring for Your Hair After Bleaching
Once you’ve rinsed and shampooed, the real work begins. Bleached hair is thirsty and fragile. Immediately follow up with a deep conditioning treatment or hair mask to replenish moisture. Using purple shampoo can help neutralize any brassy, yellow tones. Make sure to space out your bleaching sessions by several weeks to allow your hair to recover its strength.
Bleaching is a chemical process that requires patience and attention. By focusing on your hair’s specific needs and responding to its signals, you can achieve your color goals while keeping your hair as healthy as possible.