how to cut men’s hair with shears

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There’s a unique satisfaction in mastering the art of cutting hair with shears. It’s the tool that allows for texture, softness, and truly personalized styling, moving beyond the uniform look of clippers. While it might seem intimidating at first, learning to use shears is a skill that opens up a world of creative possibilities for men’s haircuts.

With a bit of patience and the right techniques, you can create everything from a classic, clean scissor-cut to modern, textured styles. Let’s walk through the foundational steps to get you started on this rewarding journey.

Gathering Your Essential Tools

Before you make the first cut, having the right equipment is crucial. You’ll need a good pair of barber shears, a fine-toothed comb, a spray bottle with water, and sectioning clips. Damp hair is much easier to cut evenly, so that spray bottle will be your best friend. Sharp, quality shears make a clean cut and are easier on your hands, making the whole process smoother for you and more comfortable for the person in the chair.

The Foundation: Establishing Your Guide

Every great haircut starts with a guide. Begin with damp, detangled hair. Decide on the length you want to leave at the back and sides. Take a small, horizontal section of hair at the nape of the neck, comb it straight down, and cut it to your desired length. This first cut becomes your guide. Working in small horizontal sections upwards, you’ll comb each new section down and cut it to match the length of your initial guide. This technique, called horizontal graduation, builds a solid foundation for the rest of the cut.

Blending the Sides and Top

Once the back is established, move to the sides. Use the same method, taking small vertical sections from the bottom up and cutting them to blend seamlessly with the length you’ve created in the back. When you move to the top of the head, you can generally leave the hair longer for more style and versatility. Use point cutting—cutting into the ends of the hair with the tips of your shears at an angle—to remove weight and create a soft, textured finish instead of a blunt, heavy line.

Finishing with Texture and Detail

The final touches are what make a haircut stand out. After the main structure is in place, go back through the hair and look for any areas that feel bulky or uneven. Use point cutting and slide cutting (gently closing the shears while sliding them down a section of hair) to further refine the shape and add movement. Always check for balance by looking at the head from the front, both sides, and the back.

Remember, haircutting is a skill that improves with practice. Start with conservative lengths; you can always cut more off, but you can’t put it back. With each cut, your confidence and ability to create sharp, professional-looking styles with shears will grow.

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